Written by traveladdict

Last updated 2005-06-01 01:42:55

July 1, 2004: Ouagadougou - Boromo - Bobo Dioulasso Yes, we can leave the capital and go to Bobo Dioulasso. On our way, we stop at Boromo, famous for its elephants. Also famous for its elephants you don't get to see… As they mostly turn up at night, little chance of meeting them now. Although their presence is proved by footprints, dung, smashed trees and the fact that farmers fiercely try to protect their corps by wooden fences.

July 2, 2004: Bobo Dioulasso We found out that the Grand Marché at Bobo is not at all as "pleasant" as the guidebook says. Salesmen are extremely pushy and one man in particular did spoil the fun. He followed us close as a shadow for more than an hour, in which he kept on begging that we would visit his shop. When we confronted him with his chasing us, he invented a twin brother, who must have done that… Nice try?!

We did like the old quarter Ibidwe with the impressive mosque and the area for animists, Muslims, griots and blacksmiths. Our guide Moumou, who we met at the "centre de la jeunesse", tried to explain us the history of the old city Sya. Interesting are the local brewery, the oldest house, the biggest autel where ancestors are worshipped, etc.… Artists make beautiful bronze statues, wooden masks, batiks, etc..

July 3, 2004: Bobo Dioulasso Our visit to the sacred pond fell literally into the water/rain and instead, we went to the little museum HOUËT. A nice collection of wooden statues are presented. Specific types for each region and use. There is also a temporary exhibition of batiks. The guide himself is also an artist and presents us his tabloids: beautiful sand paintings on canvas. Most interesting are the two houses outside. One is a replica of a typical Bobo house, the other a Peul hut.

July 4, 2004: Bobo Dioulasso - Dafra - Koro - Bobo Dioulasso By mobylette, we go to the "holy fish". Wim is sitting at the back, holding a chicken and Moumou is driving. I have my own mobylette, but no chicken… Over a rough 8 km dirt road, through mud zones and over wet fields, we arrive in Dafra.

From here it is a beautiful walk down to the "Mare aux Poissons Sacrés" through an astonishing mountain landscape. Our chicken is getting quiet. Does it know its destiny? Once we are down at the lake, we hand it over to a local. He is going to sacrifice the intestines to the huge cat fish. Barefoot, we walk over the chicken feathers to the slaughter table. The chicken looses its head, feathers, paws and intestines within a few minutes. The meat will later be grilled and eaten by the people here. But it is time to feed the fish… Due to the heavy rain, the water is brown and we can only see some black beards like little snakes on the surface.

The intestines disappear quickly, and we are a bit disappointed. The show is over… But for the local people, who come here, this is not at all a show. It is all part of their animist culture/religion. By offering food to the fish, they want to make the gods happy, so that their problems will be solved. On our way up, we cross more people, who are going down with a goat, a sheep, some chickens,…

Our trip goes on to Koro, a little village on top of the hills, surrounded by huge boulders and rock formations. We are stopped by the police on our way and luckily Wim has the passports in his pocket. Not so luckily, Moumou can't show the papers of the mobylettes. It seems like we are in trouble now. The policeman kindly suggests that we leave one mobylette here and Moumou can drive back to Bobo to fetch the papers. Hmm… Two minutes later, after a "talk behind closed doors", the police officer calls for the two of us. With a face like an angel he explains he will make an exception for us. He wishes us very positive feelings (and writings) about Burkina police… Yep!

Finally in Koro. Wims' butt is already blue from the bumpy ride, sitting at the back. A guide takes us up to the village. It is beautiful here, but also empty… All the farmers have moved down, near their fields and only return at times of festivities. In the other half of the village, which is inhabited by blacksmiths, there are still some families present. But times change and traditions too… Many blacksmiths are now also forced to cultivate land and as a consequence moved also down to the fields. Anyway… it is a nice view up here, the sky is beautifully covered with fluffy clouds and the walk up and down is good for our physical condition. Always sitting and driving the car doesn't get us in a good shape!

July 5, 2004: Bobo Dioulasso - Banfora - Tengrela - Sindou - Tengrela Around noon, we arrive in Tengrela. The route has been beautiful along mountains and huge fields of sugar cane. We will spend the night in campement Farafina, close to the Lake. But before that, we explore the Sindou Peaks 50 km ahead. The rough piste leads through rice fields and along lakes overgrown by flowers. In one little village, we nearly get stuck in the mud, while the elderly are sitting besides the road, watching the few cars struggle to get through. A favorite waste of time…

Once at the peaks, we discover why they are a must to visit. Just look at the pictures… No words needed.

Revitalized by this beautiful encounter of nature, we head back to Farafina in Tengrela. Solo is the musician/rasta man who runs the place with enthusiasm. People come here to learn to play the balafon, the kora, the drums,… There even is a Belgian/Dutch group at this moment taking music and dance courses.

Revitalized by this beautiful encounter of nature, we head back to Farafina in Tengrela. Solo is the musician/rasta man who runs the place with enthusiasm. People come here to learn to play the balafon, the kora, the drums,… There even is a Belgian/Dutch group at this moment taking music and dance courses.

July 6, 2004: Tengrela We have a very nice view on the sunrise from the rooftops. It's just 6 a.m. and we are about to go on the lake to see the hippos. Our pirogue-captain Jacu is a confident young man and takes the boat very close. I'm not so confident… Isn't it that hippos can be very dangerous? In South Africa, they are responsible for the largest number of deaths due to animal aggression, I believe. On the other hand, the hippos here seem to be very used to the fishermen who collect their nets on the lake. We watch a happy family play hide and seek for over an hour and head back to shore. Thanks, Jacu, it was a wonderful experience!

We meet an inspiring German couple at the lake. Freddy and Rita with dog Simba are on a world trip which will take them several years. Professional film maker Freddy is capturing the whole journey on digital camera.

This is an excellent occasion to exchange some "professional opinions". We enjoy the pleasant company and spend the rest of the day here. We even move out of Farafina to make our cozy nest besides the lake, in an open building.

Wrong choice! In the middle of the night a mighty storm breaks out. The fierce wind blows our mosquito net away and we just grab and hold on to our mattresses. Rain comes almost horizontally, so the roof is of not much use now. We are getting soaked! Lightening makes it look like daytime. This continues all night…

July 7, 2004: Tengrela - Mali Of course we are up early… How can you sleep like this?

Another trip on the lake to the happy hippos will warm us up. A nice ending to our Burkina visit. Around noon, we cross the border to Mali.

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